Day 12 : Ferrere to Chialvetta

After a brief shortcut through the marmot-invested field that is overlooked by the Posto Tappa, follow the road to Bersezio (which has a shop and other amenities). Go through the town to the other side, and head uphill, first gently, but quickly steeper up the flanks of a range. There is a small pass Bassa di Terrarossa (2426m). Don't go down into the upper valley, but follow the gravel road, which stays mostly level and provides stunning views over the upper valley and the official GTA route.

At the end of the valley, the road curves back a bit; just continue on and follow signs to Passo di Rocca Brancia. After the pass, there is another traverse, with the views of an upper valley and the Rifugio Gardetta. Stay more or less level to the Passo de Gardetta, from where the descent starts.

Once you reach some houses and the gravel road, follow this into the valley. There are several options for lodging. Closest to the trail is Viviere, but if they are full, continue down the valler to Rifugio Unerzio and Chialvetta (take the path, not the road, where possible).  Stay at la Locanda di Chialvetta or at the Posto Tappa of the Osteria della Gardetta 'da Rolando', where the food is excellent.